Seventy-eight kilometres of old-school singletrack travelling through stunning wilderness from east coast to west—the Heaphy truly is a classic MTB ride. Damn those New Zealanders for living in such an awesome place!
They say that good things come to those who wait… and this holds very true when it comes to MTB trails. But waiting on its own isn’t enough, sometimes getting to ride fantastic trails takes patience and a lot of hard work—whether it’s physical work or dogged persistence in lobbying the authorities depends on the instance. In the case of the Heaphy track it’s lots of both…
In Australia we hear plenty of New Zealand and their wonderful MTB trails. Amazing singletrack rides that are not only legitimate and legal, but also openly promoted to the broader community by their government and land managers. Need proof? Just check the www.nzcycletrail.com website where their Prime Minister, John Key, puts his name to this nationwide trail project and spruiks cycling as being one of the best ways to explore their country. With many parts of Australia struggling to obtain a small amount of legal singletrack, it almost seems fanciful that politicians could support cycling in such a wholehearted manner.
From an outsider’s perspective, you’d conclude that trail access comes easily in the Land of the Long White Cloud. In reality, New Zealand’s mountain bikers have been fighting the same battles as us, and doing so for a very long time. In the case of the Heaphy, it was a popular ride through the 80s and early 90s, with both MTBers and ‘trampers’ mingling on the same track.
Then in 1996, theforest parkwas upgraded to a national park, and that meant that vehicles were only permitted on formed roads. Bikes are classed as vehicles in New Zealand(and in Australia), so that saw an end to riding on the Heaphy. What followed was a long and drawn out campaign to regain access, and it’s taken 15 years of hard work to gain a three-year trial whereby mountain bikers are allowed access during the winter months.
In 1936 Wilf Broughton and Noel Pope completed the first known Heaphy cycle trip and bikes have been in those parts ever since. It’s estimated that around 2,000 people rode the Heaphy in the final year before it was closed. Throughout this time there were no official restrictions to limit cycling to a particular time of the year and no real conflict with walkers. So why has it taken 15 years of plugging away at the authorities to once again ride the Heaphy?
As in Australia, government bodies are slow moving at best and tied down by red tape. Allowing MTB access required a change to their national policy, and the Conservation Authority wasn’t about to do this without consistent pressure and an extensive study into the impact of cycling. According to key advocate Guy Wynn Williams, this was the biggest part of the job and took until 2005 for the change to be made. In a way, the effort involved in changing the policy serves as a safeguard to protect the national parks.
A Department of Conservation report stated, “The degree of impacts from mountain bikes, relative to those of walkers, who have their own unique forms of impacts, appear to be similar.” Fears of user conflict have been allayed by experience gained on the nearby Queen Charlotte track; it hosts around 20,000 walkers per year and 10,000 cyclists with no significant problems. Interestingly, the public consultation that accompanied the Conservation Authority review proved to be overwhelmingly pro-MTB—of the 1,305 submissions, 1,106 supported the change in national parks policy while just 22 opposed it. Local communities were certainly keen on legalMTBaccess as they could see the potential financial benefits.
After nine years, it was decided to change policy and allow mountain biking on selected tracks. So while access is generally prohibited in National Parks, it can now be considered on a case-by-case basis as the Department of Conservation (DOC) reviews each park’s management plan. These reviews generally take place every 10 years, so the next step was to push for an interim review for the Kahurangi National Park. Fast-forward another six years and the Heaphy has now seen its first legal MTB use in well over a decade! I’m sure anyone who has been involved in trail advocacy can relate to this—it can be a painfully slow and drawn out process. This example shows that pursuing access through the correct channels can pay dividends; it just takes a long time…
MTBs on Trial
As of 2011 the Heaphy can be ridden legally, but it’s not open slather. The three-year trial allows MTBaccess for five months during the off-peak winter season; from 1st May to 30 September each year. While this means having to ride during the coldest months, it is also the quietest period on the track, which typically sees 81% of its tramper traffic between November and April.
Through the trial period, the DOC will closely monitor user numbers, adherence to the ‘mountain bikers’ code’ and any impact on the trail condition, flora and fauna. Once the three-year trial is done, the findings will be assessed to decide whether mountain bikes are there to stay. After such a prolonged campaign, we can only hope that everyone does the right thing as there’s no doubt our behaviour will be watched hawkishly during this time.
Much anticipation has surrounded the reopening, and mountain bikers have been queuing up to ride the Heaphy. According to DOC, 700 riders went through in the first month—that’s almost a 300% increase compared to the normal number of walkers in May. Around 4,500 walkers annually trek the route, so it’s not unreasonable to think that wheels could eventually outnumber boots on the Heaphy (interestingly the busiest year recorded was 1995 – the year prior to MTBs being banned – when 7,151 people made the trip).
Unfortunately the start of winter 2011 proved to be an extremely wet one, with record rainfalls and bridges washed away in the weeks preceding the official opening to mountain bikers. I rode the track after it had been open for two weeks and in some areas the impact from mountain bikers was pretty clear. Some areas, especially along the coastal section, were very boggy with plenty of tyre tracks cutting into the bog. Seeing this damage had me concerned; would it be seen as proof that mountain bikes shouldn’t be on the track?
Thankfully DOC is not viewing this impact in a negative light. DOC Area Manager Bob Dickson told us, “It’s no different than if 700 extra trampers went through the same area. The main problems have occurred in areas that are prone to surface flooding and we are in the process of upgrading those sections. There’s also an older section of track between Saxon and Mackay huts that hasn’t seen maintenance for years; it is pretty munted but is targeted for future upgrade too.”
In a fantastic show of appreciation, Nelson Mountain Bike Club and a number of businesses – Sheppard Industries (Avanti, Scott and Shimano), WH Worrall (GT, SRAM and Giro), Ground Effect, Hyperformance Hardware (Santa Cruz and Ibis) and PRV (Schwalbe tyres and Topeak) – combined to donate $10,000 to help DOC with trail maintenance—a noble gesture from the MTB community.
So what’s it like to ride the Heaphy?
Located up the top of the south island, the track cuts from a valley behindGoldenBayin the east to the town ofKarameaon the west coast. It can be ridden in either direction but I personally like the idea of finishing with the ride along the remote and spectacular west coast.
It kicks off with a steady 17km climb up to Perry Saddle. This takes you from the lush green valley floor at just on 100m up to the highest point on the ride at 900 metres. Whilst not overly technical, there are enough roots and rocks to make you pay attention as well as numerous waterfalls.
I did the ride at the end of May with the crew from Ground Effect clothing. It was their ‘annual partners ride’ and all involved hoped that relationships remained intact by the journeys end… As luck would have it, the weather wasn’t doing anyone any favours. It was cool and wet at the start but downright horrible at the top of Perry Saddle. With the temperature hovering around five degrees and gale-force winds driving horizontal rain into my face, I was struggling to keep warm despite the effort required on the persistent climb. It’s not like I was short on clothing either – thermal undershirt, long-sleeve merino jersey, full rain jacket with hood, merino knicks with ¾ length rain pants, thermal gloves – I had it all going but was still struggling to maintain body heat.
Refuge and Respite
It was right about here that I discovered one of the joys associated with backcountry adventures in New Zealand—warm and cosy huts! DOC maintains huts on many backcountry routes and there are six of them dotted along the Heaphy. Each has bunks with mattresses, toilets and a coal-fired heater—absolute luxury by Aussie bushwalking standards. Most also have gas cooktops, so you don’t need to carry a stove with you on the ride. Staying the night in a DOC hut will set you back just $30 and you’ll need to book in advance…
The heater was cranking when we arrived at Perry Saddle hut, windows steamed with moisture from those huddled round the fire, desperately trying to get warm and slightly less wet. Yes, the odour was a touch skanky but everyone was thankful for the respite from the torrent of rain that was thundering down outside. A 40-minute stint in the hut with a hot brew lunch was enough to regain body heat and motivation to get out into the elements once more. Now wearing almost every item of riding gear in my possession, the conditions seemed more bearable.
The next section of the Heaphy was a little rougher and more technical, descending to the open heath land of the Gouland Downs. It was nice for the suffering of the climb to end and the fun descent served to take my mind off the cold. While the mist reduced visibility, I’m told that you can see both the east and west coast of New Zealand from some points on the track. While I didn’t have that pleasure, the multi-coloured red and orange hues of the Gouland Downs and the openness of the vegetation made for a unique riding experience. A few swinging bridges also added interest, but the novelty of these was set to wear off by the second day on the Heaphy.
Before long we reached the Gouland Downs hut, a smaller eight-bunk building with a rustic feel. After a brief look around we pushed on. Much of this section was on well-formed trail with a free-draining gravel surface—it made for easy pedalling even in the damp conditions. Stopping at Saxon Hut was an excuse for another brew to warm up and chat with fellow travellers. With 16 beds it is a popular option for an overnight stay.
While it is possible for very fit, experienced and well prepared riders to complete the entire 78km length of the Heaphy in a day, it is strongly advised against by both DOC and the New Zealand MTB community. Poor weather can strike at any time and slow progress markedly. The last thing the track needs is riders who are pushed for time and run ragged trying to complete the journey in the short daylight hours of winter.DOCspecifically prohibits riding after dark to protect two threatened nocturnal species found on parts of the track, the powelliphanta snail and the ‘roa’ (great spotted kiwi). Aside from it being poor form and threatening the success of theMTBtrial, rushing through in a day means you miss out on the overnight camp—an integral part of the Heaphy experience.
From Saxon Hut, a gentle climb on moss-fringed singletrack takes us through mountain beech forest until we crested another ridge. The reward was more scenic views and yet another change in vegetation. Now pedalling through scrub that resembled the Australian bush, the trail surface deteriorated on one of the older sections of trail that DOC has slated for a future upgrade. While it was more of a slog and really boggy in sections, it still offered a good deal of fun if you kept your momentum up. There were also some interesting stretches of exposed granite on the trail with drops, step-ups and various technical challenges that really add to the whole experience.
Five-Star Accommodation
After four and a half hours of riding, 43km and a total of eight hours on the trail, we reached our overnight stay at Mackay Hut—a 26-bunk hut with distant views off to theTasman Sea, 750 metres below. It was here that we met up with the other half of the Ground Effect crew. While we’d travelled from Collingwood in the east, they’d started from the Karamea end. With a swap of keys we were set to pick their car up at the end of the track and vice versa. This is one way of dealing with the logistics of this point-to-point ride but there are various other options.
It was a full house for the night with all the beds booked out by the combined Ground Effect crew and one other group that was out on the Heaphy. While it’s not this busy all the time, it highlighted the importance of pre-booking your bunk space. With the coal stove going the hut was cosy and warm enough that I was comfortable in a summer sleeping bag for the night. Dinner was the backcountry equivalent of the Iron Chef with various groups going head to head—while it’s always advisable to travel light, not having to carry a tent or stove does allow a little extra extravagance.
Aside from drying off and eating and drinking to excess, the overnight stay offered an opportunity to check out the nightlife—the native nocturnal variety that is… Once the sun set the kiwi and weka (both flightless native birds) came to snoop around the camp. While I didn’t see any of the powelliphanta (a giant carnivorous snail), I did encounter a huge New Zealand earthworm—apparently they can grow up to a metre in length! One word of warning though; the kea (mountain parrot) have an appetite for MTB bits, particularly foam grips and saddles. This is where a little local knowledge comes in handy, as Guy from Ground Effect had brought along a nylon fishing net to stretch out over the bikes—apparently this is enough to deter them.
The Heaphy takes between four and six days to walk and DOC recommends two or three days to ride its 78km length. I think their estimates are fair and less experienced groups should definitely take the three-day option; the going is always a bit slower with a pack and the track gets a lot tougher when wet, which is always a distinct possibility on New Zealand’s west coast. With the wet conditions that accompanied the Heaphy opening, DOC says that a number of groups have underestimated their abilities in trying to do the ride in two days, so don’t fall into that trap and you’ll have a more enjoyable trip.
Coastal Climax
While day one on the Heaphy was great, day two was really the highlight. You could quite literally roll out of Mackay Hut and not put a pedal stroke in for the next 12km—it is all downhill! The gradient is steep enough that you don’t feel the need to pedal, yet consistent and gradual enough that it takes a long time to loose the 750 vertical metres down to the coast. It really is a fantastic descent and takes you through a range of different ecosystems along the way, including the ancient podocarp forest that once covered much of New Zealand.
At the bottom you encounter the first in a series of huge suspension bridges, each crossing a massive rushing river. Initially I approached the Heaphy like any multi-day ride back home, and a major concern was being able to carry sufficient water. I was devising ways of strapping three large bottles to my bike when myNew Zealand mate Laurence told me one bottle would suffice. How right he was; Laurence and his wife Viv turned up for the multi-day trek without a bottle or hydration pack between them—they’d just scoop water up from beside the track as required, which wasn’t too often in the cold conditions! The volume of these rivers combined with the dampness in my chamois to affirm that there’s a lot of water in them thar hills. While I wouldn’t bank on it being this wet all of the time, there’s always a chance of it, so go prepared with appropriate clothing. Also remember to carry sufficient mechanical spares, including a spare set of brake pads—my new disc pads were down to the backing plates after four days of wet riding in theGoldenBay area.
The trek south along the coast presented some of the most picturesque singletrack that I’ve ever ridden. In parts the narrow strip of dirt skirted round headlands just shy of a sizable drop to the water below; it was both scenic and disconcerting at the same time. You also pass through groves of nikau palm. It is the only palm species endemic to mainland New Zealand and it sets a scene that really epitomises the Heaphy—unique vegetation, great singletrack, rugged coast and thumping rivers.
Towards the end the trail spits you out onto the beach for a 100 metres where a refreshing dip could be tempting in warmer weather (watch out on this section as it can be impassable with a really high tide). Then there’s one final climb between you and the last fun descent to the finish—just beware of the diagonally-placed koppers logs if it’s wet. From Mackay Hut to the Kohaihai River car park was 38km with three and a half hours riding and around six hours including the scenic breaks and lunch stops.
Fifteen years is a long time to wait to ride any track, but I can see why New Zealand mountain bikers have been willing to go the distance. The Heaphy offers so much; it’s not an easy trail by any means, with technical challenge in places and the satisfaction that comes from an overnight adventure. Then there’s the huge variety of scenery that you encounter along its 80km length; from mountain heath to damp dark beech forest and costal palms—it’s a real journey. Undertaking a multi-day trip like this takes a lot more organisation and commitment than rocking up for a bike park ride but the rewards make it well worth the effort. To top it all off, being denied access for all these years has seemingly elevated the ride to hold some sort of cult status. Does it deserve the wrap? I think so and I’m sure that just about every New Zealander mountain biker would agree—the Heaphy really is an iconic journey to add to your ‘must do’ list.
For hut bookings, track information and general guidelines for MTB use, go to www.doc.govt.nz Updated track information and other links can be found at www.groundeffect.co.nz/underground/hotrides/?id=75
Car Shuttles, Bike Shops and Logistics
Logistics pose a problem with most point-to-point rides, as you’ll probably need to get back to your starting point. In this case the car trip involves a windy 460km drive that takes six hours.
Options include doing a car swap, whereby two groups travel in the opposite direction and exchange keys at the overnight camp. You then drive each other’s cars back to a predetermined spot. By meeting half way around, this option can also reduce the driving distance for both groups. Explore this option on the Bike Heaphy forum (http://bikeheaphy.forumotion.co.nz ) or by posting on the Heaphy Track MTB Karamea Facebook page.
A number of local businesses offer services to iron out the logistics; some provide a shuttle bus while others will drive your car around to the finish for you. Martin Langley from The Quiet Revolution Cycle Shop often drives cars to the end before riding the Heaphy himself to get home. In addition to helping out with Heaphy Logistics, The Quiet Revolution also has a comprehensive workshop offering bike service and spare parts. Escape Adventures offers the full deal with bike hire and guided tours on the local trails. Both businesses are located in the town ofTakaka.
You can also lash out on a flight to get you back to the start. Whilst more costly, its worth considering once split between two or three individuals—especially once you factor in the potential time saving and scenic flight along the way.
Contacts:
Escape Adventures - www.escapeadventures.com
The Quiet Revolution - www.quietrevolution.co.nz
Bike Track Transport - www.biketrack.co.nz
Nelson Lakes Shuttles - www.nelsonlakesshuttles.co.nz
Golden Bay Air - www.goldenbayair.co.nz
Karamea Helicopter Charters - www.karameahelicharter.co.nz
Those with more time and an appetite for adventure may choose to ride to Karamea, stay there for a night or two to recover, then return via the Heaphy. Accommodation options include Rongo Backpackers (www.rongobackpackers.com) or the Last Resort (www.lastresort.co.nz) for a bit of luxury.
Graham Milne – MTB Pioneer
The Yanks often bang on about how they ‘invented’ mountain biking but consider this… Whilst eating out at the Mussel Inn prior to riding the Heaphy, I bumped into Graham Milne. Now 92, Graham completed an epic backcountry bike trip back in 1935. The trip took him fromChristchurch, overArthursPassto the west coast and back to Christchurch via the Haast Pass.
While Haast Pass is now a sealed road, it was only upgraded from a rough dirt track in 1966. Back in 1935 it barely rated as a pack-track. Riding 18kg bikes with 25kg packs, Graham and his mate twice traversed the Southern Alps on their month long 1,280km journey. Large sections of this were on narrow bridal paths that we’d now relish as ‘technical singletrack’.
