Mountain Biking the Alps 2 Ocean Trail, New Zealand

Travelling from the base of Mt Cook to the East Coast, the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail is New Zealand’s newest multi-day off-road adventure. Eamon Fitzpatrick journeyed to the land of the hobbits to check it out.

Etched into our memories were the advertisements for New Zealand from the 1990s, with their unofficial national anthem Slice of Heaven ringing in our ears. What followed was a bit of a lull on the tourism front and more recently New Zealand has fallen on hard times, but in true spirit they are back on their feet and ready for another round. Now, 20-odd years later, we have a new wave of advertisements promoting their slice of heaven. This time it’s a Crowded House jingle taking us through the land of hobbits and great outdoors. Anything but crowded, the advertisements showcase array of amazing and remote mountain bike trails.

So, I packed up my bike and crossed the ditch to check out the latest government initiative in mountain biking; the 310km-long Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.

New Zealanders have an affinity for the outdoors and they have long been at the forefront when it comes to innovation in adventure sports. It’s become the place to be inspired and a mecca for outdoor sports. Airport oversized baggage is therefore a busy place with bikes, kites, boards and all matter of sporting gear being lugged through. Today I was one of those lugging a bicycle through Queenstown airport, looking for an unknown man named Vernon.

I didn’t know Vernon from a bar of soap but he was to be my guide on the newly opened Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail. I thought; how hard could it be to find someone who looks like a biking nut? I didn’t count on them all looking like that! Anyhow, Vernon owns and runs Helibike Tours and A2O Cycle Tours in the Mackenzie country on the South Island. To put it into perspective, the Mackenzie Basin is in the middle of the south island and runs north to south. It includes the country’s longest glacier, the Tasman, and runs past Mt Cook Village before eventually forming Lake Pukaki at the southern end. As the name suggests, Helibike Tours include both helicopters and a mountain bikes—so let the fun begin!

Driven from Above

The Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail is one part of a nation-wide trail network. Called the ‘Nga Haerenga’ or NZ Cycle Trail, it’s a mainly government funded facility aimed at getting more people, especially tourists, out in the elements. It’s like all of our Christmases have come at once because this kind of government support and backing is rarely seen by mountain bikers. To assist in construction of the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail the Central Government contributed $2.75 million, the Department of Conservation and Waitaki District Council chipped in with $400,000 and $350,000 respectively and charitable trusts account for about $400,000 of the funding.

Nga Haerenga is not a continuous trail throughout the country but rather a selection of ‘great rides’ that have received government funding—the Alps 2 Ocean is one of these earmarked trails. Part of the route is off-road on purpose built tracks and part is on infrequently used dirt or sealed roads—more off-road sections being added all the time.

Our tour started from the Hermitage Hotel at Mt Cook village and the first day heads south along the eastern shore of Lake Pukaki. Vernon promised us some of the most spectacular scenery in all of New Zealand. At the time I thought that was a rather bold statement considering what I’d just seen in the locally filmed Hollywood blockbuster The Hobbit on my flight from Melbourne. Later he explained that many of the scenes from The Hobbit were actually shot in the area.

Of course the best way to see any country is by bike and that’s especially so in New Zealand. You can miss so much if you rush things along. Mt Cook Village was the start point for our ride; it’s approximately 3.5 hours drive from Queenstown. Along the way it is worth stopping at a few of the quaint villages like Arrowtown before continuing through the fruit basin of New Zealand to pick up some of the most delicious fruit for the journey into the mountains.

We did our trip in autumn and for me, it would have to be the best time. Temperatures are comfortable for physical activity and the colour of the flora is mind-blowing. With the golden yellow of the tussock grass, reds and oranges of deciduous trees and lush green fields, it’s a feast for your eyes—like seeing colour for the first time.

We arrived at Mt Cook Village in heavy rain but as with any alpine region, you only have to wait a short period for the weather to change. Sure enough, it cleared and we were able to do some sightseeing in the area. The good thing about Vernon’s tours is that they aren’t rushed and you really get some time to absorb the place.

Icebergs & Helicopters

One absolute must do is the iceberg tour at the tail of the Tasman Glacier. It’s a constantly changing environment with icebergs melting away and new bergs breaking free from the glacier every day. Out on the custom-made boats we were able to get in close enough to touch the icebergs that were floating at the base of the glacier. In addition to being an amazing experience, it’s also symbolic of the mountain bike tour that lies ahead. The Alps 2 Ocean trail follows the rivers and lakes all the way down to the ocean, and the base of this glacier is where it all begins.

Staying back at the village for the night provided the perfect opportunity to do some star gazing. Mt Cook is one of only four star-gazing areas in the world and second in the southern hemisphere. Being a ‘gold rated’ reserve it produces some of the darkest skies you or I will ever see.

By now I was itching to get in the saddle, so day two couldn’t come quick enough. We woke to a beautiful sunrise over New Zealand’s highest peaks; with clear skies and fresh air it was a perfect day to ride. To start the six-day tour we made our way down the valley to the helipad where we had our very own helicopter was waiting. Fitted with specially made bike racks, the ‘choppa’ whisked us away, soaring over the Mackenzie Valley. The flight took us to the official starting point of the Alps 2 Ocean, on the opposite shoreline of the heavily braided Tasman river system. If you thought this region looked spectacular from the ground, wait until you get the bird’s eye view!

The track itself is suitable for mountain bikers of all abilities and the trails are more dirt track than singletrack. It’s the jaw dropping scenery that forms the key attraction with the Alps 2 Ocean, and as the Tourism NZ advertisements suggest, the scenery really is postcard perfect.

It is a relatively slow-paced tour over six days, but it is the only way to really appreciate the area. The track is gravel-topped and purpose built, snaking down the valley where the Tasman Glacier once lay. In amongst the braided river there are several crossings and bridges to navigate. First stop is 37km away at Braemar Station and it’s typical of the hospitality that you can expect along the way. Set on private land on a hill overlooking Lake Pukaki, the station has several cottages which can sleep the whole gang. It’s the perfect place to kick back with a cold beer and a BBQ and reminisce about the adventure had on day one.

Mt Cook may be in our tracks, but it is never really out of sight during the first couple of days. The 3,754-metre peak is always lurking in the distance, keeping an eye over things.

Day two travels 45km further down the purpose built track to Mt Cook’s closest town, Twizel. Along the way we tested out a new liquid soil stabilising compound. This spray-on surface is like a thin layer of bitumen and it’s being trialled on the Alps 2 Ocean with mixed results. The climate in the Mackenzie Country takes its toll on the trail, with extreme cold in winter and very hot and dry summers. They are always looking to improve the trail with the aim of minimising the impact on the environment as well as reducing maintenance, so next summer they are going to trial an innovative new powder-based surface.

Stopping for lunch at the southern end of Lake Pukaki, Vernon and his team prepared a delicious picnic. We lay on the grass resting our legs and taking in the scenery. Looking back to the mountains in the distance, we sat in silence; quite reflective of how lucky we were to just be in such a beautiful place. Part of the reason was that no words could describe how we were feeling. This wasn’t what most people consider silent; this was silence like nothing I’d ever experienced. There wasn’t a breath of wind, no machinery, no cars, even the animals were enjoying the silence. Absolute silence.

Twizel is an interesting place. It was built as a new and temporary town in the 1960s to serve as a base for the workers on the Upper Waitaki Hydroelectricity Power Development. It was due to be demolished at the end of construction but the locals loved it so much they voted to keep their new town.

On day three from Twizel you have the option of taking the helicopter up to the summit of Ben Ohau. In addition to some amazing 360-degree views over glacial lakes, you also get a huge off-road descent back to the official trail at Lake Ohau Weir. The official trail makes its way along the hydro-canals that were created by the good people of Twizel. The 39km of track is undulating with some steep sections but nothing too stressful, so you do get to enjoy the scenery as it transforms into farmland. The canals themself appear to defy physics with the vivid blue water sitting up above the farmland as if it was floating above the land.

Day four covers 42km and it’s the last day in the real mountains—the icebergs at Mt Cook now seem a distant memory and the rivers are flowing fast at this stage. Finally you now get the feeling that you are making your descent towards the ocean.

It’s a real treat to reach the famous natural spring hot tubs at Omarama. Unlike many natural springs, in Omarama you get your own personal hot tub to sit back in with a beverage. There’s hardly a better way to relax and enjoy the fresh air and the mountainous backdrop.

Hitting the Road

The following day starts with a climb and you spend the first part of this leg on the state highway. It’s a bit of a letdown after the backcountry brilliance of the proceeding days but plans are in place to add more purpose-built MTB track—it may even be complete by the time you’re reading this. After 25km you leave the highway and make your way along quiet sealed roads to Benmore Dam. It’s New Zealand’s largest dam and second largest hydro station, churning out 540 megawatts—a spectacular sight. After 64km of predominantly sealed road riding, the night is spent in the small rural township of Kurow.

With the mountains now far behind, the tour draws to a close as the flatter farmland of the Lower Waitaki Valley take over. Autumn leaves litter the landscape creating a quilt-like blanket covering the earth. It’s a totally different landscape to the first half of the tour but equally as spectacular. From Kurow the riding remains flat and starts with another on-road stint (although negotiations are underway with a view to adding more trail). After Duntroon, you’re once again back on the purpose-built cycleway.

We could feel the ocean air overtake our lungs with that great sense of achievement you get from completing a cycle tour. This feeling is that much greater when you have such vast changes in landscape. We started at the base of New Zealand’s highest peak with snow-capped mountains all around, we saw icebergs break free, followed the streams, rivers, lakes and canals and more than 300km later saw the same water flow into the Pacific Ocean just north of Oamaru.

The Elephant Rock formations, complete with historic Maori drawings and dinosaur fossils, provided us with one last surprise for the tour and it dawned on me there and then that New Zealand is full of little pleasures.

It is the small and often simple things that make a trip so brilliant. This mountain bike trail is jam-packed full of little pleasures. From that silent lunch at Lake Pukaki to the natural springs and hot tubs in Omarama. The soaring mountain peaks at sunrise to colour of the lakes and autumn leaves. It sweeps you up and takes you away to a land of possibilities. It opens your mind and cleanses the soul. It really is a great getaway and it is so close to home!

General Information

Getting There

Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail starts at Mt Cook Village in the Southern Alps on the South Island. It is halfway between Christchurch and Queenstown (the two closest international airports). Mt Cook is a four-hour drive from Christchurch (330km) and just over three hours from Queenstown (263km). There is an airport at Mt Cook but it is limited to seasonal flights only through December and January. 

When to Go

The trail surface permits year round riding but spring, summer and autumn deliver the most pleasant weather conditions—mid-winter will be cold! 

Where to Stay

You’ll find all manner of accommodation along the route; everything from luxury lodges to budget hostels and pubs. There are campsites along the trail as well; both pay-to-use sites and some without facilities. Search the phrase ‘freedom camping’ to locate the free camping areas and check for any restrictions. 

Ride Logistics & Costing

You can tackle the Alps 2 Ocean on your own or enlist the help of a guide. If you’re going it alone (or with a group of mates) and want to follow the complete route, you’ll need to book a helicopter flight to get across the Tasman River near Mt Cook Village. Helicopter transfers start from $83 per person based on six people on one flight. If you don’t want to pay for the helicopter ride, you can start on a trail on the other side of Lake Pukaki.

To do the six-day trip with A2O Cycle Tours (owned by Helibike.com) will cost around NZ$2,195 per person including the helicopter ride, food, accommodation and transport from Queenstown. Add an extra $300 to that if you want to hire a bike for the trip. 

Handy Links

Official Alps 2 Ocean website: www.alps2ocean.com

A2O Cycle Tours: www.helibike.com

NZ Cycle Trail: www.nzcycletrail.com

Alternative Rides

The main attraction with the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail is the scenery and the journey itself—all the way from the alpine region to the Pacific Ocean. It is accessible for riders of all abilities but there’s no golden singletrack or epic physical challenge on this ride.

Of course there’s no shortage of more challenging and adventurous rides in Mackenzie country. Vernon is always willing to help you out with ideas and he can customise his tours. To get an idea of what’s on offer, check out the Department of Conservation website as they have more than a dozen rides listed in the area. Go to www.doc.govt.nz and download the Mountain Biking in Mackenzie/Waitaki booklet. You can also explore some tougher rides in surrounding areas at NZ by Bike. Their site it outlines a large number of trails with maps and difficulty ratings, go to: www.nzbybike.com

If you’re after more singletrack than these rides have on offer, allocate a few extra days in Queenstown and you’ll have enough singletrack and gondola assisted bike park fun to make you want to move there for good!

Here are some of the more challenging ride options in and around the Mackenzie region: 

Richmond Trail – Kahui Kaupeka Conservation Park

Graded as ‘intermediate’, this 26km trip (13km out and back) takes you along an old glacial terrace with stunning views of the surrounding mountains and Lake Tekapo. The real fun starts with the descent back to Lilybank Road, which is a bit technical in places. 

Manuherikia Circuit

The Oteake Conservation Area has a number of backcountry rides with the longest loop being around 44km. There’s river crossings, some great huts to stay in with wood burning stoves and with elevations of up to 1,700 metres, great views are just about guaranteed. 

Melina Ridge Track

Located in a wild and woolly area above the Avon Burn Gorge, this 35km ride is rated as ‘grade five – expert’ and will take a full day. Expect plenty of switchbacks, both up and down on this ride, which cuts across from Birchwood Road in the Ahuriri Valley to Lindis Pass on State Highway Eight. 

Dusky Trail & Hard Labour Weekend

This ride takes in a 23km circuit through tussock grass and along fast running streams. While this ride can be tackled at any time (assuming the crossing of the Twizel River isn’t too deep), the real drawcard is the Twizel Hard Labour Weekend. It takes place in late October and will appeal to multi-sport fans as it encompasses three events; a kayak paddle, mountain run and the Dusky Trail MTB race. It is a great local event and the proceeds help to support local junior sporting clubs in Twizel.